La Dolce Vita Retreats

Reporting back to you from the Amalfi coast, I am again in total awe of our extraordinary time spent in the enchanting hillside village  of Ravello, “the city of music”, where we stayed at the magnificent Hotel Caruso. Perched on a verdant “balcony” overlooking the Amalfi Coast ( a Unesco World Heritage Site), with vertical vineyards and citrus groves cascading down excruciatingly steep, craggy cliffs, and the most dramatic infinity pool I have ever beheld, it is truly the gem of the Divine Coast.  Hotel Caruso, with its warm, welcoming Napolitan staff, its rich history dating back to the 12th century, its beautifully restored frescoes and its idyllic location, is the perfect place to refresh, recharge and be nurtured by their highly professional team.  Call it la dolce vita or joie de vivre, we were definitely living it each moment.

 Our mind, body and spirit journey included practicing yoga in the magical gardens overlooking the sea, the perfume of citrus and flora infusing the balmy air.  We enjoyed pilates classes with our fabulous fitness instructor/personal trainer, Tank Kofturcu, who also instructs our nutrition counseling classes and kick-boxing classes.   We indulged in leisurely cruises along the coast to Positano on the Caruso’s private boat, Ercole, a beautifully restored classic Napolitan fishing boat, taking in the exquisite scenery as we basked in the warm sun and swam in the clear blue sea.  We hiked to Minori,  Atrani, Scala and  Amalfi, mesmerized by the dramatic views of the rugged coastline, walking along paths that are centuries old and sprinkled with Roman ruins and old shepherds’ tracks, occasionally encountering mules and work horses, still an important mode of delivery today.  I even challenged myself and walked the entire ”Path of the Gods,” albeit with my private guide, Marcello.  (no, not Marcello from Under the Tuscan Sun)

Of course, we swam daily in the surreal infinity pool, slumbered or read in the lush gardens, often in the shade of the mature pomegranate and olive trees, blossoming jasmine, twisted grape vines and dazzling tapestries of white roses.  And alas, we enjoyed citrus scrubs, open air massages and a myriad of aromotherapy treatments at the spa.  Our bodies were well nurtured!

As for our minds and spirits, we fed our souls with evening concerts at the Villa Rufulo, enriched our minds meandering through villages with Angela Imperato, the best guide in Ravello, learning about the architecture, art and history of the Amalfi Coast. To our delight, as a 36 year resident of the Campania region, she also shared her “insider’s knowledge” and availed us to exploring restricted sites and a magnificent private collection of coral and fine art.

One day Angela took us to Maiori where, among other activities, we had the opportunity to purchase gorgeous leather sandals custom made at the family-run sandal shop, Sandali Tipici that has been making sandals for 40 years.  We also visited a fine ceramics factory in Vietri sul Mare where we enjoyed a private tour, learned about their hand-crafted process and watched the artisans as they worked.  A real treat was visiting a private residence that until recently was the famed villa of Gore Vidal, named “Rondinaia” (the Swallow’s Nest), a stunning property clinging onto the side of the highest cliff.  This was Vidal’s sanctuary of inspiration, where he penned many of his books and where he entertained notable guests such as Jacqueline Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, Maria Callas and Rudolph Nureyev.   

 We relished fabulous slow food cuisine at Hotel Caruso as well as enjoyed the local eateries up and down the Amalfi Coast.  In particular, in Positano we devoured the fabulous Sushi Napolitan (not on the menu, but we were special!)  at Le Terrazza, the foamy, undulating surf just beneath us.   We awakened our mojo at the chic Music on the Rocks for a fun “girls night out”.   In the quaint fishing village of Cetara, internationally renowned for its sushi-grade red tuna, tasty anchovies and its prized colatura, we lunched  at Acquapazza for a phenomenal traditional Napolitan meal.  Owned by two cousins, both named Gennaro, we were hosted in a most regal manner with a five course meal and “back of the house tour” of their sparkling kitchen.  What an experience!  ”Fresh” cannot even begin to describe the superb quality of their product.   We indulged in exquisite desserts from the spectacular terrace of the restaurant Torre Normanna in Maiori.  In Ravello we lunched at  Villa Cimbrone midway through strolling their spellbinding gardens and those of Villa Rufulo.  We tasted wines of the region, in particular, from Furore; sampled the finest buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil - picked moments before serving; savored handmade pastas stuffed with local shellfish and zucchini flowers stuffed with goat cheese from Agerola, at  trattoria in Amalfi. 

We explored the intrinsically charming medieval streets showcasing the ceramics, linens and coral arts of the region, lingered in the piazzas sipping espresso or locally produced limoncello, listened to music that seemed to drift out from every corner and immersed ourselves in the splendid Napolitan culture.  It’s no wonder that so many great musicians and authors were enraptured by its allure and inspired to create their masterpieces.  I have absolutely surrendered to its magic.

For an opportunity to experience this captivating location, La Dolce Vita Retreats will be returning to Ravello for the September 20-26, 2009 retreat!  Only a few spots remain so register now! Some of the highlights of the retreat will be watercolor painting classes by celebrated artist, Leo Kennedy and Pomeii by Night!

In the small fishing village of Cetara on the Amalfi Coast, there is a wonderful restaurant owned and operated by two cousins – “the two Gennaros”- Gennaro Castiello and Genaro Marciante and its name is Acqua Pazza (crazy water).  The cuisine is simple food prepared using local flavors and  traditional recipes complimented by tremendous ingenuity.  Two main stays of the cuisine are colatura, an infused oil  and garum, a condiment,  both  heavily dependent on the anchovies for which the village is famous.  The village also supplies some of the finest red tuna in the world.

Always using the freshest fish and shellfish, the famed lemons of the region, aubergines, local Provola cheese and combined with the  Gennaros’ spirit of joie de vivre, Acqua Pazza is an experience not to be missed!

If you are planning to visit Cetaro while touring the Amalfi Coast, make a reservation as it’s become very popular especially since its great success on the television show “La Prova del Cuoco”(Ready, Steady, Cook) where they competed with chefs of other Italian regions and were First Runner Up!       http://www.acquapazza.it

La Dolce Vita Retreats gives Acqua Pazza a thumbs up!

When I was developing the concept for La Dolce Vita Retreats one of the benefits I was looking forward to enjoying was the opportunity to challenge myself.  One of the most significant areas in which I have been challenging myself is related to my lifelong fear of heights.  That fear has prevented me from enjoying activities and experiences that I long for but the fear has held me back.  So I have been gradually desensitizing myself over the past few years and  I was so thrilled last week when I accomplished hiking the “Path of the Gods” on the Amalfi Coast.  I never would have been capable of doing that three years ago!  It was such an amazing feeling of freedom.

I’ve always dreamed of hot air ballooning over the Loire Valley and the Masai Mara but resigned myself to the fact that I would never be able to have those experiences.  I may not be ready quite  yet, but I now have the hope and possibility that I could accomplish that.  My goal is to be able to hot air balloon over the Masai Mara on July 12, 2010.

Named so because one can almost touch the clouds!